
A two-hour
domestic flight up to Delhi with Jet Airways. Time to recollect my impressions
and try to make some sense of the last few days. Much as I had expected, Mumbai
immediately hit me with its dire poverty and newfound riches. Massive high-rise
buildings rising into the sky, driven by speculation, next to places like the
Dhobi Ghat, where the “washing caste” still washes linen by hand for hospitals
and other institutions.
On the
second day here, we went to the offices of Tata Financial Services. Tata is one
of the world’s largest industrial conglomerates, with businesses in virtually
every field, from tea to cars (including the already legendary Nano). At the
office we visited, they were developing IT solutions for banks, airlines and
other transaction-intensive businesses like insurance companies. As they
outlined their globalization strategy and described how they had succeeded in
moving up the value chain from simple labour-intensive programming tasks to
becoming fully fledged IT partners, I could not help but smile. This is the
world of the 21st century, a world in which an ever-tighter web of
interdependence is being woven, and a world in which war is increasingly becoming
a historic anomaly. As companies continue to integrate their electronic
infrastructure across borders, the enemy is no longer a distant Other but
rather the ones who make sure that your cheque clears or that your flight is on
time. Sitting in their fancy boardroom, eating Indian appetizers while
listening to their plans to increase the number of women in their workforce,
the happy “planetary future” that I often write about suddenly seemed to be
within reach.
The
following morning, we were scheduled to go on a “slum tour” of Dharavi. When I
first saw this point in the programme back in Sweden, I must admit that I felt
repulsed. And when the people from Reality Tours picked us up outside our hotel
in white safari-style SUVs, I feared that my worst suspicions were about to be
confirmed. However, once we got out to Dharavi, things were very different from
what I had expected. First, it is worth pointing out that it is not the poorest
people in India, but rather the lower middle class, who live in slums. Second,
there are slums that are a lot worse than Dharavi. Still, I was surprised to
see all the activity, the happy faces of children who greeted us with
curiosity, and the strong drive towards modernization. Looking ten or twenty
years into the future, one could well imagine a very different Dharavi. On a
less positive note, much of the work carried out in Dharavi involves the
recycling of plastics, aluminium and other metals, work that is done without
proper equipment or protection, with possibly disastrous long-term effects. It
was also possible to see that the caste system was still very much alive in
Dharavi, with Dalits, historically excluded from the traditional caste
hierarchy, doing the worst tasks, such as emptying the public toilets or
cleaning the alleys.