Derailed

After all my years traversing the railroads of Sweden, I have developed a rather stoic equanimity when it comes to delays. Yet, when I received a text message about a derailed cargo train between Borås and Gothenburg, I immediately knew that this would be a long evening. But, instead of despairing, I went over to the bistro and picked up the new Adobe Rosé from Valle Central in Chile, a caprese salad, and one additional bottle of water.

Having passed Södertälje, I also have a novel by Annie Ernaux and lots to digest after my two days in Stockholm. So, right now, I am more in popcorn mode, wondering if we will be rerouted north via Trollhättan or, perhaps more excitingly, south via Hässleholm and Halmstad.

Kungsholmen

With hotel prices through the roof in Stockholm, I am staying at the same Scandic Go as back in September last year. This time, however, I got a room with windows and all, overlooking Sankt Eriksgatan, rather than the basement room – number 007 – that I was slightly hoping for.

Still, to avoid being completely on repeat, I took the opposite direction around Kungsholmen this morning after treating myself to a cinnamon croissant and a coffee. Stopping repeatedly to take photos and take in the view from Fredhällsklipporna, Stockholm felt just as familiar and foreign as it always does.

Before taking the 4 p.m. train back to Gothenburg, I hope to check out the exhibition Family – For Better or Worse at Sven-Harrys Museum.

Night scooting

Due to rail maintenance work, the first morning train from Gothenburg to Stockholm now leaves as early as 4:19 a.m. Wanting to be in Stockholm by nine, and with the ticket costing only a few hundred SEK in first class, it was the best option, even if it meant having to get up in the middle of the night. Luckily, I do not mind going to bed early.

Not knowing whether I would find an electric scooter, and with public transport still hours away, I set the alarm for 3:10 a.m. and, after a quick shower, I was on my way, ready to walk the three kilometres to the railway station. To my surprise, I found a scooter just outside the door, so, in the end, I had more than half an hour’s margin – enough time to take in the brightening easterly sky, the party crowd who had apparently decided to go straight from the club to the train, and the sleek stainless steel frame of the X2000, which would take me on a convoluted route via Borås to Stockholm.

A bus to Halland

This being my last official work week before the summer holidays, I spent the better part of the morning with Blackboard and helping stray students with different admin-related tasks. But since it is late June after all, I did so from the balcony while eating pancakes with blueberries.

Wanting to reclaim a bit of Halland, I then persuaded the kids to take the X3 bus down to Särö for a hike in Västerskog. The first time I discovered this windswept peninsula was during the HUB recce in 2024, and I was happy to see the impression that its natural beauty made on the kids. Looking out over the Western Sea, I suddenly felt a lot of hope that this may well be the beginning.

Though it meant that I had to work late tonight, I could not say no when William asked if I wanted to go to the gym with him. Since he started in January, he has made so much progress, and it is fascinating to see how committed he has become.

Vättlefjäll

Returning on bus X3 to the 13th-century church in Angered, it was Anna’s turn to check out the beautiful sixth stage of Bohusleden. Running on well-prepped trails through the calm summer morning, we stopped frequently to take photos and for a skinny dip in Stentjärn. After all we have been through over the last year, it feels so good that we are still friends and can do these things together.

Once in Bohus, we jumped on the train back to Gothenburg and, in no time at all, we were having lunch at Sun Sushi by the railway station, a familiar fixture ever since I moved back from Australia in 2008.

While a more sensible person would presumably have had enough physical activity for one day, William wanted to go to the gym, so I topped up with 5k of indoor rowing, some swimming in Delsjön, and then the last kilometres of running I needed to make it to 80 kilometres once more. With that in the books, I feel that I have done what I can to prepare for my 132-kilometre ultra two weeks from now, so it is finally time to taper.

Fair skies

Today, the orange weather warning has been replaced by the loveliest of summer mornings. Instead of Santa Cruz, I have my London coffee mug as I have just checked in for my Stansted flight in two weeks’ time. Otherwise, these days in June always bring back memories of the Breakthrough Dialogue: midsummers spent listening, questioning, and thinking by the Pacific.

Today, Anna is taking the train up from Halmstad for 14 kilometres along Bohusleden, stage six, which, oddly enough, she has never run before. With a bit of luck, we will get to swim in the lakes of Vättlefjäll and swing by that bakery in Kungälv before heading home to the kids.

Thunder

This morning, sitting on the balcony with my orange coffee cup from Santa Cruz, I watched the sky quickly darken as a massive thunderstorm came ashore. Seeing the intense red on the weather radar, I decided to skip my planned run and head over to the gym for some indoor rowing. Unfortunately, I was not quick enough, and the electric scooter ride soon felt like driving through a wall of water.

 

Luckily, the sky eventually cleared, so I was able to go for a run in the forest and then a harbour excursion with William to the gym in Lindholmen. All in all, close to three hours of exercise, meaning my summer training camp is well underway. However, to prevent any outsized gains, I had the most lovely Basque cheesecake at Alkemisten and later a hearty spaghetti carbonara for dinner.

Långevattnet

As planned, William joined me on his bike for a harbour run this morning. After passing a few closed cafés, we were relieved to find one of our favourite cafés in Sannegårdshamnen open, and we fully enjoyed our fika while watching the ferries pass by, filled with midsummer revellers heading out into the archipelago.

 

After lunch on the balcony, I decided to make the most of the kids’ computer time by biking up to Västra Långevattnet for a midsummer swim. Luckily, it was remote enough for a skinny dip, and the water temperature was a stunning 21 degrees.

The Alder Forest

With my apartment in Halmstad about a kilometre away from “Aleskogen”, an old alder swamp forest with abundant undergrowth, I often pass through on my coastal runs, listening to the birds singing. Yesterday, after a long day of meetings, I was a bit short on time but, even just skirting the edge of it, one can tell what a paradise it is for birds.

Now back in Gothenburg, I am alone with the kids for another week before taking the train to Stockholm. This means that midsummer tomorrow will be a rather toned-down affair, with nothing planned except reading a bit of poetry on the balcony. Before that, however, I hope to go for a long run around the harbour with William in the morning sunshine and also finish updating all Blackboard pages for the autumn courses.

The Real Flex

While my dad headed up to Norway for the launch of Snälltåget’s new daytime service between Oslo and Malmö, I took the train in the opposite direction to Halmstad to show my mother around campus as well as my apartment on Hallandsgatan 19, which I was pleased to see met with her approval.

Beyond showcasing Halland, we have also been able to go for a morning run together, which I always find inspiring. It is one thing to run an ultra-marathon at 47, but the real flex is obviously to run up and down the hills of Skatås at 77.